As a long board surfer of almost twenty years, having lived on O'ahu, Hawaii's famed North Shore, I have both experienced first hand and seen the immense power of crashing waves. It is quite a spectacle to behold especially if the breaking wave is coming on you. It is in that split second that I realize it is all coming down on me, that it is going to hold me down, scrape me against the reef, pummel me and then disorient me. I am trained to use my energy smartly, since my body cannot come up for air. I literally meditate for 10-15 long seconds as the wave has its way with me. What can I do? Minimal energy expenditure to protect my head and face is all I can muster, knowing full well I must leave gas in the tank for the rest of the waves that will mercilessly crash on me to repeat the situation. You see, waves come in sets. You get stuck in the crash zone, and you will be there a while. the wave sets come in 4-10 waves at a time. Your shoulders, back, arms, chest, and...
For The Good Of The American Family & Individual: Youth, Adults, & Senior Citizens